She Who Sews

I've been a busy sewing bee these past few weeks, with little time for writing. So I thought I'd finally get my writing fingers out and say some lovely things about a dress.



This is the Appelstroop Sundress by the Eli Monster. As part of the ambassador team, I got to choose a pattern for this month, and well, Layla actually chose the pattern! She loved the open back detail on this dress, so that's what won her heart.



The dress is a fairly simple design, with a standard bodice front and a big gathered skirt, but what sets it apart from other dresses, is the button waistband, and of course, that open back.

The back fastens with two hook and eye closures on the very inside, almost invisibly joining the two back edges together. Then over the top is a detachable big bow.



I made an error when sewing the dress, not taking into account Layla's tiny waist, so of course, the age 6 waistband was huge on her. I had to take in the centre back seam a good couple of inches, which makes the button closure slightly off to one side. But no worries, it was easily fixed. The dress is made in age 7 height, so I blended sizes according to the instructions.



And just a quick mention of this glorious fabric. This is Petally Splendid by Art Gallery Fabrics. This is part of the Splendid Fusion collection, with this print being designed by Sharon Holland. By now you must know my love affair with big bold florals? Well, I think Layla is following in my footsteps because she just adores this print too.



We're just waiting for some warm weather. We've had glorious sunshine and dry days for weeks, but with a seriously cold easterly wind which is making the 'feels like' temps very wintry... not at all suitable for open back sundresses!

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*Disclaimer: Some of the links in the post are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission (the price stays the same for you) which will help me in the future to buy more patterns to share them with you!*

This month's theme for the Eli Monster ambassadors was the Rainbow. We each had to pick a colour. So Layla jumped on the message straight away, claiming purple (Indigo).



We originally went for a purple, with a purple cats on white print interlock. But it was a big disaster. I haven't quite got the hang of sewing it yet, and unpicking it wasn't an option. I'd ruined the fabric.

So we went out and bought the only purple looking fabric we could find in the local shop, and got this pale purple and deers with bow ties. Needless to say, she loves it!

So here it is, the Ijsje Top. We paired it with shop bought gymnastic leggings, and it's the perfect outfit for her to leap about, do gymnastics, and generally be an active little girl.

So the photoshoot went like this: Can I have a nice pose Layla?



Lets try it with your eyes open...



Less like a zombie?



Or giggle



Or pose like a Ballerina



Nope, cartwheel it is.



Starjump...



Sigh...



This top pattern, the Ijsje Top is on sale this month, along with the other ambassador picked patterns: The Academie Cardigan (you can read about my versions here), The Reizen Pants, The Spelen Dress (I made this dress from bright pink silk, here), The Feestje Dress and The Maritiem Top (I've made several, you can read about one here).

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*Disclaimer: Some of the links in the post are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission (the price stays the same for you) which will help me in the future to buy more patterns to share them with you!*

Are you one of those people who leave everything until the last minute? I am! But enough about my bad organisational skills, I'm writing about this fantastic cardigan pattern I happened to test at the beginning of this year.



This is the Academie Cardigan by The Eli Monster. I made a pink, sleepy cat face, version in testing, bordered in floral, that Layla wore to death, I had to whip it out of her room whilst she slept just to wash it, so I knew I had to make her another.



So this month for our ambassador project, the theme was 'Oh so sweet', and what is sweeter for a 7 year old girl than unicorns?!



I had this unicorn french terry in my stash that I bought a few years ago, I didn't realise how much of it I must have bought, as even with this cardi, and the other long sleeved top I made, here, I still have some left over.



During testing it was found that the overall length was too long, so her original cardi is more tunic length on her, whilst this unicorn version hits at her hips.



I used a pink cotton lycra for the cuffs, waistband and neck hem on the unicorn version, with multi-coloured snaps to close it. It's such an easy and fun item of clothing to make.



I'm not sure we'll make use of it, but the pattern includes stripes and letters to turn it into 'letter sweater'. It's also unisex, so in theory my boy could have one too... but try to convince him of that!



You'll be pleased to know this pattern is on sale this week as part of the 'Oh so sweet' promotion. The other patterns on offer are the Susse Skirt (I blogged about that here), the Bries Cardigan, the Vlinderaas Blouse, the Weekendje Kimono and the Dadaïsme Dress.



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*Disclaimer: Some of the links in the post are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission (the price stays the same for you) which will help me in the future to buy more patterns to share them with you!*

I always find sewing for me very daunting. Not least because the fabric consumption is much, much greater than for a child, but also because I find fitting to me very difficult.



But having had a wardrobe reduction, I got rid of a lot of clothes that either didn't fit, or were totally worn out, meant that I was seriously lacking in wearable clothes!



So The Eli Monster to the rescue. I needed a fairly quick and reliable sew to make myself an outfit and two patterns fitted the bill perfectly.



I made a slightly modified Maritiem top in supersoft viscose jersey knit (I bought this over a year ago I think, and Fabworks no longer have it in stock, but I can link you to this, which is a different colour), and then paired it with the Muzikant Skirt in a gorgeous drapey, soft wool suiting.



I measured 3 sizes larger on my waist than my hips (pah, my tummy goes beyond mummy tummy). So I figured I'd just cut the skirt for my waist size, and not blend sizes, especially as the larger sizes are graded for a taller height, which I needed. But once I'd made the skirt up it became clear that I really needed to grade it in for my hips. I put the skirt on myself, inside out, without the waistband, and pinned out the excess along the side and back seams (unsurprisingly, the front was fine over my tummy!). So basically, in the end, I should have graded for hips in the first place.



Once I'd made these little adjustments, I added the waistband and then sewed on the button. I tried hard to pattern match the stripes, and largely managed, except for one of the centre back pieces, which really annoys me! The fabric is a fine herringbone, in a two-tone blue. I used the darker side for the main skirt, and the paler side for the waistband.



Pockets are not in the pattern, but I added them anyway as I always need a pocket to stash a tissue for every child emergency. I was so pleased to have a skirt that fitted, and looked flattering without looking frumpy. And yes, you can twirl in it too!



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*Disclaimer: Some of the links in the post are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission (the price stays the same for you) which will help me in the future to buy more patterns to share them with you!*

There's not been much happening recently in my sewing world. I have not had the time or impetus to complete anything, but Layla saw this top whilst scrolling and actually let out a little squeal of delight. So I figured I had to join the test for her! This is the Appeltaart Top by the Eli Monster.



The fabric that Steph used on her daughter's version was amazing, and I told Layla that she couldn't have it, I wasn't buying anything new. So she nonchalantly said, 'oh I'll just have butterflies then'. Nothing like resigning yourself to beautiful fabric eh?!



I managed to get a version 2 of the pattern sewn up and complete when it became clear that the top needed a bit more swing, so the final version has a bit more flare to the hem, but I didn't have the time to sew up another, so bear in mind that my final pictures are a bit narrower than the final pattern.



The top features a ruffle, forming a cap sleeve on one shoulder, and following all around the front petal, to the back and up to the centre front on a faux wrap petal. It's finished at the neck and armholes with bias binding (my nemesis, but woohoo, I managed it this time!).



The back is finished with a simple neck placket and button and loop fastening. These are super quick and easy to do.



The thing that took me the longest was gathering the long ruffle, I really need to invest in a ruffler foot for my Bernina.



The blouse that this pattern produces is super cute, and it could be made into a beautiful showstopper with some super special or sparkly fabric. Just imagine it with a tiered maxi skirt!



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*Disclaimer: Some of the links in the post are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission (the price stays the same for you) which will help me in the future to buy more patterns to share them with you!*

So, I've been looking back at my blogposts, and have to say, there haven't been that many of them this year. And the reasons why? Well, we started extending our house back at the beginning of March. Anyone who has ever had building work done will know what a huge upheaval that is to a household. It took pretty much 6 months to complete to a state we could all start living happily again, and now we have the builders back in to correct a fairly fundamental issue. So my newly created sewing room has been off bounds again, sealed off (literally, with tape around the door) and me unable to do anything again. Another reason for the last month has been a fairly sad, and ongoing family situation. One that we hope won't last for too long for the sake of the family as a whole. But needless to say, it's been clouding my creativity somewhat.

I have failed on a pattern test, failed to keep up my side of several sewing ambassador commitments, and for that, I am truly sorry. Sometimes life throws you a curveball.... and it keeps on curving at the moment.

I can't wait to get back into sewing again, get back into life as it was pre-building work, pre-family illness. I think my sanity will return!

So I made myself a top just before my sewing room was sealed off. It's been a fair while since I made myself anything, and I hoped it would cheer me up somewhat. It hasn't worked 100% as expected as it's just made me aware of my own body image hang-ups.... bleurghhh.



This is the Maritiem top by the Eli Monster. I wanted to apply to test this pattern when the call was put out, but with all the things going on, I decided it best not to add to my stress levels. It's a fairly simple knit top, which is designed to be semi-fitted, with three quarter length sleeves.



The pattern comes in two teen sizes, then adult sizes A-H. I have found that I need to make top patterns based on my upper bust measurement rather than full bust, I obviously have a wide back, and not very big boobies! So going by my measurements I needed to make a pattern based on a size B chest, E waist, and D hips. Frankly, I couldn't be bothered to grade over all those sizes. I printed off size B and C, and used B shoulders, neck and armholes, then graded out to C from the armhole to bottom hem. I added an inch at the waistline as I know I have a slightly longer torso than normal. Yes, it would probably be a bit snug, but I prefer a slightly tighter cut to my t-shirts.



So the finished top doesn't fit me too badly at all! I think I know where Layla gets her larger back and shoulders from, as I seem to have the same fit issues as her, my shoulders seem too wide at the back, but perfect at the front. The width is fine for me, but I would perhaps have widened it slightly at the bottom hem for a touch looser fit over jeans.



And then the pictures. I am so shapeless, and my belly seems larger than my non-existent chest... It makes me sad to see the pictures. I know why I have very, very few mirrors in the house.



Anyway, enough of self-pity. The fabric is a pure viscose that I bought a couple of years ago thinking it was a woven, not knit. I would not go out of my way to buy viscose now, knowing the very intensive chemical manufacturing process. But as I had it already, it seemed silly to have it sit and go to waste. It's a lovely thin, bright printed, very stretchy fabric. I think I may have enough left over to make Layla a matching top. She would love that.

The Maritiem Top is on sale this week as part of the Spooky/Sweet blog tour, along with The Nieuw Dress, The Rivier Dress, The Süsse Skirt and The Sötnos Shirt. Here is the full line up:
Monday 15th October - Seams Normal
Tuesday 16th October - Threadistry, Marieke Falderieke
Thursday 18th October - She Who Sews (you're reading me!), A SiwSiw
Friday 19th October - Random Knack, Frullemieke, SoVeryJo

Did you know you can follow me on Instagram and I'd love for you to give me a like on Facebook.

*Disclaimer: Some of the links in the post are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission (the price stays the same for you) which will help me in the future to buy more patterns to share them with you!*

I've long had a soft spot for Eli Monster patterns, but I've never made any of the boys patterns that they sell. So this has now changed!



I was given a choice of patterns to sew up, mostly girls, with just one boy pattern, the Kamp Shirt. I figured my boy was long overdue another shirt, the one I made him earlier in the year has been outgrown.



He's super picky, and finding a fabric he likes is virtually impossible, so I tried a different tactic. His dad had cleaned out his wardrobe and had a pile of shirts that either didn't fit, or he wasn't going to wear again. So I gave my boy the choice of all the discarded shirts. He was very happy to pick a vibrant Hawaiian print (taking after his Dad in so many ways!!). Excuse his face!



As I was upcycling, I had to think about which elements of the grown up shirt I wanted to keep. I figured that the button plackets and hems were important, and placed my pattern pieces (minus placket and hem allowance) accordingly. Lining up the front piece it became clear that the pocket was in the way, so I unpicked it to re-position on the new shirt. I carefully cut the main front and back pieces first. Then I cut the existing sleeves from the shirt right at the seam line to give myself the maximum fabric possible. I lined up my pattern pieces on the big sleeves and cut them out maintaining their sleeve hem.



From the shirt fabric bits that were left, I cut one collar stand, one collar and one back yoke. I then needed to find a complimentary fabric to cut the other of each these pieces. I used some blue polycotton left over from the Alice in Wonderland outfit. It's nice and soft, and I know that is big deal for my son, to not have scratchy/itchy seams/clothes.



The shirt came together really easily and quickly (I like not having to make button plackets, button holes and hems!). The instructions were clearly illustrated with pictures, which always helps, especially for the burrito method of sewing the back yoke.



I blame tiredness for pinning my sleeves back to front, and then posting up pictures in the group saying the pattern was wrong! What I hadn't done was look at my pattern notches closely enough, and pinned the sleeves front to back and vice versa. I'm pleased to say that once I realised my mistake, the sleeves and notches lined up beautifully ;)



And now for the tricky bit. Summer seems to have left us, rather quickly. It's now a bit on the cold side, and taking photos was a chore. My boy was such a trooper though and managed to be chilly for a bit, so long as he could put back on his jacket straight afterwards!



You can get your Kamp shirt pattern from the Eli Monster website.

The fun part (shamelessly stolen from Seams Normal)

Between the 16th and 23rd of September all patterns used for this blog tour can be purchased with reduction. You only pay $7 for the following patterns* (no coupon code needed): The Speeltijd Shorts, The Kinderschürze Pinafore, The Picknick Dress, The Schatje Skirt and The Kamp Shirt..

And to finish I would like to give an overview of the other blog tour participants coming up in the following days.
15 September: Seams Normal
15 september: A random knack
16 september: Threadistry
17 september: Frullemieke and myself
18 september: Big Fly notions and Soveryjo
19 september: A siwsiw thing, Mother from girl and boy and Marieke Falderieke

Did you know you can follow me on Instagram and I'd love for you to give me a like on Facebook.

*Disclaimer: Some of the links in the post are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission (the price stays the same for you) which will help me in the future to buy more patterns to share them with you!*

Ever since I made the Latona dress at the beginning of 2017 (read here), I had planned to make another with zips in the back bodice instead of buttons, for no other reason than I felt like it.



But, well, all the other pattern tests, a little bit of work, and shiny new pattern releases got in the way and nothing ever came of it. Until just before Christmas when I found some amazingly happy and bright fabric in our local fabric shop. I just knew I wanted to make it into a Latona, with rainbow zips!



I found the zips online and ordered up a few pairs as I was unsure on the length I'd need. They weren't as rainbowy as I'd hoped, but they did the job. The difficulty came in figuring out how best to substitute the zips for the buttons. The centre back piece of the bodice overlaps the back sides to create two button plackets. I wondered whether to get rid of the overlap entirely and just replace with zips, reducing the centre back panel in width. But this came with it's own problem of how the skirt would then attach nicely to the bodice. I discounted this method because I couldn't wrap my head around the waist/bodice join.



In the end I opted for creating a second placket in the skirt and adding the zips in with their tape sewn on like a seam allowance and turned under. It is not the neatest job in the world, but turning the zip tape under creates it's own little flaps so the zips aren't directly against the skin. I added in two small sew-in snaps to the top of the centre back to hold the flaps in place. I hoped these would stop the back from gaping, but it didn't.



The revelation about why this is gaping came in the last couple of weeks, and I can't change this dress unfortunately. So here is a prime example of a dress not fitting correctly. See how the back neck is gaping downwards, and that you can clearly see the shoulder seams? The seams shouldn't be visible on this photo, as they should be at the top of shoulder, just out of sight from this view. The back neck should be considerably higher towards the neck. There is also a small amount of pulling at the front armholes. This would all be solved by adding extra width to the top of the back like I did for this dress.



The next time I make this pattern I will be adding extra to the back, as I will be for all patterns going forward.



Did you know you can follow me on Instagram and I'd love for you to give me a like on Facebook.

*Disclaimer: Some of the links in the post are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission (the price stays the same for you) which will help me in the future to buy more patterns to share them with you!*