She Who Sews

I just love a lot of the Duchess and Hare patterns. They have such a sweet vintage vibe, which is what drew me back to sewing when Layla was a toddler.



This new dress, the Sugar and Spice was first advertised for testing way back in October. At the time I saw it and loved it, but just couldn't commit to the testing process because of life getting in the way.



So I actually did a double take when it was put back up this month. I had a strange sense of Deja vu, that I'd seen the dress before, but couldn't put my finger on it. It was only when I was accepted into the testing group that I realised it was the dress I'd loved before.... Sometimes I'm such a twit ;)



I threw myself wholeheartedly into the test, and tried to get my dress finished quickly. I went off piste, and asked if I could use horsehair braid in the skirt hem which was agreed. But then it became clear that simply machine sewing it into the hem of the satin would look odd. So I spent two days, yes, you read that right, two days handsewing the horsehair braid into the skirt hem, approximately 4 metres of it (did I mention this is almost a double circle skirt?!).



But the dress just didn't hang right. I sat it on my dummy, and photographed it, and primped and preened it. I put Layla in it, and photographed her, and tried to make it sit right. But it was just wrong. The braid was fighting the satin and the pleats in the skirt too badly. On a very low day, of tears (building work in my house is now bringing me to tears), and general miserableness, I unpicked the entire hem. It only took about 10 minutes to do. I ironed the whole thing out again and made up my own satin bias to hem the skirt that way (who knew that the designer would be right.... oh yeah, everyone except me!).



So I did machine stitch the bias into the skirt hem this time. Yes, it would have looked better to be handsewn again, but I simply didn't have an extra two days time to do it. My handsewing is slow!



I made my dress with a silk satin bodice, and a poly duchess satin skirt and collar. The lining was a cotton lawn. I made my own bias binding for the skirt from the silk satin as a contrast colour. The dress is closed in the back with an invisible zip which is enclosed in the bodice within the lining. The skirt is a very full almost double circle, which is pieced and pleated into the bodice. It's a fabric hungry pattern because of the skirt, but if you use a non-nap, non-directional print, tessellates nicely onto the fabric.



I love the collar that rolls round from the front into two points at the dropped back. And the included petticoat pattern adds that extra oompf (if you don't use super heavy duchess satin!).



This Sugar and Spice dress, along with several others will be in the Black Friday sale, with 40% off storewide, running until midnight, Monday 26th (PST).



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*Disclaimer: Some of the links in the post are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission (the price stays the same for you) which will help me in the future to buy more patterns to share them with you!*

A little while ago, Twig and Tale released three dress-up wings patterns. They were amazing. My little girl kept glimpsing them over my shoulder whilst I was scrolling through Facebook. Her reaction was always to ask me when I was going to make her some, like with many other things she sees over my shoulder!



I resisted, I had a lot going on and couldn't really spare the time for dress-up, as the kids need (and still need) actual functional clothes, as do I, for winter.

But then Lisa asked if I'd like to test out some Angel wings. I think I nearly died. I didn't even ask Layla, I wanted to make some, and just hoped she'd want to dress up.



It was a challenge, it wasn't cheap, and it took many, many hours. But I managed probably my greatest ever sewing achievement! These wings are amazing.



Whenever I think of Angels, its two extremes, either the film, City of Angels, or the white fluffy ornament that goes on top of a Christmas Tree. I wanted the wings to be flamboyant, and special, and shiny, and tinkly; everything I imagined Christmas Angel wings to be.



I had some gold crepe backed satin from several years ago when I was toying with making a dress range for sale. I found it buried amongst many other treasures (more on that probably in the future!). And when I retrieved it, found I didn't have enough for both sides of the wings. So I had to improvise. I decided on the gold satin for the back and found some pale cream, or ivory cotton lawn that seemed to ask to be appliquéd for the front. I also knew I wanted to use lace, but I wasn't sure how. I had several lace remnants from a bridal designer who was selling off her stock, along with silk and satin. The lace is beautiful, but it didn't really hold much attention with the wings, it just didn't have the opportunity to shine. So I went for some coloured, glitter dot tulle, black lace and scraps of the gold satin to make the feather appliqués.



Before I could even set about sewing the wings I needed the required interfacing, in both fusible and sew-in. This is the biggest sticking point. The designer is based in New Zealand, so a world away from me in the UK. There were another couple of testers based in the UK in the group, but they had used interfacing that I couldn't seem to lay my hands on in the shop near me. So I had to take a gamble.



Against advice, I used a stiff linen buckram as my sew-in interfacing, and a weird rubbery type fusible one for the back wings, called Decovil Light. I then used what was sold as a heavy fusible interfacing (the normal stuff) for the front wings, which seemed to do precisely nothing to add stiffness. At the same time, we went looking for trims. I wanted feathers ideally, but the shop only had big feather boas in wild colours, which would not fit in with my desired pale/gold look! After much searching and deliberating (there is only so much a 7 and 9 year old will put up with), we came away with a feather trim, a small one with feathers attached to a bias strip, and some tinkly bells on a silver trim. Layla and I wanted the wings to tinkle and be musically festive.



I couldn't figure out how to add the bells in the end, but the feather strip I added to the outside seam of the main wing, to end up as a feathery halo around the sides.



So I sewed the wings up and then realised exactly why linen buckram wasn't recommended. Turning the wings out with that stiff fabric almost made me quit entirely. It took me a LONG time. But I got there in the end, only to cry that all the pulling and pushing had made the satin fray at all the feather joins and popped the seams. I was really, really, really careful not to snip too far in, so can only assume that the combination of fraying fabric and a too stiff lining played a part in popping the seams. So after throwing them on the floor in utter frustration, I picked them back up and handstitched all the popped seams apart. If you look closely, you can see, but I'm hoping no-one does.



Then I went on to sewing the appliquéd feathers. I think this part took me about 4 hours. Now don't get me wrong, I am not a fast machinist, and I like to get things right, so I take my time. But when I came out of my sewing binge my neck was aching and I was bleary eyed...



All in all, I estimate that these wings took me between 10 and 15 hours to make from start to finish. They are fiddly, they are time consuming, they are expensive, but just look at the finished result! These are wings to be treasured, to be played with, and to be passed down from child to child, and generation to generation.



So with every set of wings must come a costume to go with them, right? Layla needed an Angel dress. Well, actually, what she wanted was a dress-up wedding dress. Something she's been asking for nearly a year. About 6 months ago I found a couple of ivory remnants in Truro Fabrics which we bought together with the intention of making her a gown. This set of wings has pushed me to actually get on with it, and make an angel come wedding dress for her!



I used the Driftwood Dress pattern, with the free A-line add-on to make her gown. I lengthened the dress simply by putting the paper pattern up against her, and adding length down to her ankles. I then added this to the bottom of the paper pattern. An a-line dress is very simple to make.



I made the long sleeves without adding a cuff or elastic, for a bell shaped look. I used some of the bridal lace off-cuts, so managed to have enough to do a scalloped lace sleeve to go with the knit fabric of the body. The Driftwood is designed for woven fabric, and as such, has a keyhole opening in the front or back to allow the fabric to go over the head. Because I used a knit fabric, I didn't really need this. So I opted to keep the neckline closed, and used the neck binding piece at 85% to make a small band, similar to a t-shirt. I added two belt loops to either side and made a long gold satin belt to add a bit of detail to break up the plain dress.



Layla then requested I add the tinkly bells to the dress, but we didn't exactly know how. It was a suggestion of one of the other testers to make the hem high-low, to give the idea of train at the back. So I put the dress back on Layla, and pinned the front hem up a bit to her mid shin level, then took the scissors to it. I added the bells to the front higher hem, so when she takes a step, she tinkles. She is totally in love with the whole outfit. Forgive the bin, and all the clutter, and the leggings underneath, just concentrate on the happy smile, the happy dance and the happy girl!



These wings will be on offer during the once a year site-wide sale using the code ALLBLACK for 20% off. There is a super special mega bundle deal on these new style wings which brings the price down to just $18.80, a massive saving from $52.50 when using the code ALLBLACK.



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*Disclaimer: Some of the links in the post are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission (the price stays the same for you) which will help me in the future to buy more patterns to share them with you!*

I always find sewing for me very daunting. Not least because the fabric consumption is much, much greater than for a child, but also because I find fitting to me very difficult.



But having had a wardrobe reduction, I got rid of a lot of clothes that either didn't fit, or were totally worn out, meant that I was seriously lacking in wearable clothes!



So The Eli Monster to the rescue. I needed a fairly quick and reliable sew to make myself an outfit and two patterns fitted the bill perfectly.



I made a slightly modified Maritiem top in supersoft viscose jersey knit (I bought this over a year ago I think, and Fabworks no longer have it in stock, but I can link you to this, which is a different colour), and then paired it with the Muzikant Skirt in a gorgeous drapey, soft wool suiting.



I measured 3 sizes larger on my waist than my hips (pah, my tummy goes beyond mummy tummy). So I figured I'd just cut the skirt for my waist size, and not blend sizes, especially as the larger sizes are graded for a taller height, which I needed. But once I'd made the skirt up it became clear that I really needed to grade it in for my hips. I put the skirt on myself, inside out, without the waistband, and pinned out the excess along the side and back seams (unsurprisingly, the front was fine over my tummy!). So basically, in the end, I should have graded for hips in the first place.



Once I'd made these little adjustments, I added the waistband and then sewed on the button. I tried hard to pattern match the stripes, and largely managed, except for one of the centre back pieces, which really annoys me! The fabric is a fine herringbone, in a two-tone blue. I used the darker side for the main skirt, and the paler side for the waistband.



Pockets are not in the pattern, but I added them anyway as I always need a pocket to stash a tissue for every child emergency. I was so pleased to have a skirt that fitted, and looked flattering without looking frumpy. And yes, you can twirl in it too!



Did you know you can follow me on Instagram and I'd love for you to give me a like on Facebook.

*Disclaimer: Some of the links in the post are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission (the price stays the same for you) which will help me in the future to buy more patterns to share them with you!*

There's not been much happening recently in my sewing world. I have not had the time or impetus to complete anything, but Layla saw this top whilst scrolling and actually let out a little squeal of delight. So I figured I had to join the test for her! This is the Appeltaart Top by the Eli Monster.



The fabric that Steph used on her daughter's version was amazing, and I told Layla that she couldn't have it, I wasn't buying anything new. So she nonchalantly said, 'oh I'll just have butterflies then'. Nothing like resigning yourself to beautiful fabric eh?!



I managed to get a version 2 of the pattern sewn up and complete when it became clear that the top needed a bit more swing, so the final version has a bit more flare to the hem, but I didn't have the time to sew up another, so bear in mind that my final pictures are a bit narrower than the final pattern.



The top features a ruffle, forming a cap sleeve on one shoulder, and following all around the front petal, to the back and up to the centre front on a faux wrap petal. It's finished at the neck and armholes with bias binding (my nemesis, but woohoo, I managed it this time!).



The back is finished with a simple neck placket and button and loop fastening. These are super quick and easy to do.



The thing that took me the longest was gathering the long ruffle, I really need to invest in a ruffler foot for my Bernina.



The blouse that this pattern produces is super cute, and it could be made into a beautiful showstopper with some super special or sparkly fabric. Just imagine it with a tiered maxi skirt!



Did you know you can follow me on Instagram and I'd love for you to give me a like on Facebook.

*Disclaimer: Some of the links in the post are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission (the price stays the same for you) which will help me in the future to buy more patterns to share them with you!*